About 4 years ago, I purchased an Audio-Technica AT-LP120 turntable based off the great online reviews I read. (Yes, yes, I know -- hindsight is 20/20, Rega and Music Hall fans.) Since then I've been in a battle to get it to sound its best, and I've won the fight. I'd like to pass on a few things I've learned.
1) Replace the felt slip mat with a rubber mat. This shouldn't be too hard, even though rubber mats aren't something you can just find at a local shop anymore. They seem ridiculously expensive online, but check your local thrift shops for used turntables. Here in Phoenix, turntables seem to go for about $10 at Goodwill. Find one with a decent thickness rubber mat, and you're all set.
2) Change your cartridge and stylus. For best sound with this turntable, I recommend getting a microline stylus such as a Shure M97xE with a Jico SAS stylus upgrade, or the fantastic bargain that is the AT440MLa. At the very least, go with a Nagaoka MP-110. It's not a microline, but it sounds great for its price bracket.
3) Audio-Technica manufactures an official, heavier replacement counterweight which will increase stability and improve tracking. It's an easy and official way to improve your table. I suggest you do this even if you ignore the rest of my blog.
4) When replacing a cartridge, use a Stevenson protractor, not Baerwald. The AT-LP120 has Technics arm geometry, and Stevenson alignment works best for clean sound from the beginning to the end of an LP. Here's the way to get a custom protractor which will give you perfect alignment:
Download the following zipped program, which is a custom protractor generator: http://conradhoffman.com/TemplateGen.zip. Go ahead and unzip it and run it.
Now, you'll want to enter the following values:
Pivot to spindle distance = 214.500
Inner groove radius = 57.50
Outer groove radius = 146.050
Finally, choose Stevenson A alignment, and print your protractor.
You'll wind up with the most accurate protractor possible for the AT-LP120.
5) Remove the built-in preamp, as per this video by Steve Hoffman Forum member Frankie P.
Yes, you heard right. Open up the bottom of your TT and yank that sucker out and then utilize an external phono stage, either a dedicated pre-amp (for those of you on a budget, the ART DJ PRE II is a little wonder for only $50) or a receiver/amplifier with phono input. The built-in preamp is absolutely lousy. If you're using it, it adds an unpleasant digital tone to the playback, almost a graininess. Believe it or not, it also accentuates surface noise and sibilance. If you bypass it using the switch on the back of your turntable, there are still capacitors in the signal path which will make it sound dark and closed-in when their capacitance is added to that of your external pre-amp.
You'll be amazed by the difference.
These are the changes I've made to my own AT-LP120. Trust me, they've worked wonders.
Updated 1/7/15
First, thanks for helping! After trying to align the cartridge with this protractor, It seems that the original alignment from factory was not right. The screws were originally down the shell, and now they are up and not aligned each other (so the cartridge can be aligned to the protractor's strips). Does It happened to yours? Maybe I'm not properly using the protractor.
ReplyDeleteI'm sorry I missed this post! I never ran into the problem you've described . . . hopefully you got it sorted out!
DeleteThank you for making this guide for AT-LP120. I just bought my own. I have ortofon 2m black and can't wait to test that, but first I'm gonna remove the preamp. And it's true that there ain't too many rubber mats in stores nowadays.
ReplyDeleteNope. Weird how rubber mats seem to have vanished. Apparently cork is all the rage now. I tried a cork mat and went back to rubber.
DeleteDoes changing to a rubber mat (different thickness than standard felt mat) require a change in VTF?
DeleteI used a cork mainly to cut down on static. It is a vast improvement from build-up.
DeleteGreat article here! I've had mine for about 7 years now (pre USB version). I have yet to take out the internal preamp as I'm not 100% confident in my ability to do it.
ReplyDeleteWith that being said, I feel like I have gotten a really good sound out of this 'table. I'm using a 440MLa cartridge (tracking at 1.70 Grams--thoughts there? I enjoy the sound, but would love your opinion). I've got it running through the Cambridge 640P Preamp which is ultimately hooked up to a Marantz 2215B receiver.
A 440MLa is a great cart! Some folks feel they're too "bright." Ultimately, if you remove the preamp, you're going to feel like a veil has been removed, and the 440MLa may suddenly sound too bright to you ... but you'll be getting a more honest sound from it.
DeleteAloha Ben, I've been through the same trip w/ my 120usb,removed the board, rubber mat, tube pre. I also have the anti-skate problem, but I can only see it when on a blank LP, doesn't affect fidelity as far as I can hear, I'm running AT440MLa cart at 1.5g w/ anti skate at 3. But, to the point, My TT came with the 95 cart and was set up from factory at 52mm from end of headshell like a Technics. Now when I set up the 440 like that it was nowhere close on any protractor. When I set it up so it is perfect on both the Stevenson A and the baerwald the cartridge is almost all the way back in the headshell. On an overhang gauge it's around 48mm. What's your location in the Headshell? Thanks, Mark
ReplyDeleteSorry for the delay, Mark. My carts are almost all the way back in the headshell per the Stevenson A alignment.
DeleteBenjamin, is your cartridge parallel to the headshell AND the lines on the protractor?
DeleteFollowed the video instructions to the letter for the preamp removal. Red to red spliced and capped, whit to white and all grounds connected and capped. New ground wire installed and connected to spaded ground wires inside under spring. After putting everything back together, there is more buzzing sound with the ground connected to the external preamp then without. Any thoughts on this?
ReplyDeleteI honestly couldn't tell you. I haven't experienced that myself. Keep in mind that I didn't make the video; I just followed its instructions.
DeleteIs there anywhere online I can find that custom protractor? The generator is PC only
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't know if there's a Mac or Linux version.
DeleteI know this post is a few months old, but I hope you see it. I'm looking to purchase my first turntable. I've been looking at the AT-LP120 and the AT-LP1240 as good starter turntables. Would you know if there is a big sound difference between the two? I understand that the LP1240 does not come with a cartridge, so that will play a role in the sound. But I just was curious about the overall sound.
ReplyDeleteHi Adrian, I haven't heard the AT-LP1240, so I couldn't tell you. Sorry!
DeleteThe LP 1240 is isolated with rubber on the bottom and inside the platter, a very powerfull drive, the tone arm built is slightly better and have few more features for Djs. The preamp is the same as the A/D 16Bit converter. More powerfull is the drive more noise you'll have. Unless... These are comercial all-in-one TTs as you can see by the price. The quiet the better. External preamps, digital interfaces and A/D converters, its the best available option for these TTs. There are affordable options with ART http://artproaudio.com/artcessories/turntable_preamps/ and some more.
DeleteWell, I hope it helped
I have the LP 1240USB and found the bypass switch to not have the capacitance that the LP 120 does. I purchased the rubber matt for the LP5 (newer consumer verison) for $24 by calling Audio Technica support and purchasing over the phone. The tech ther also recommended the 440MLB needle for my AT-100E cartdridge which has better channel seperation that the 440MLB cartridge and exactly the same frequency response. The sound is incredible with these two mods. I have ordered the heavier LP120 counter weight as it should work to sit closer to the pivot point.
DeleteHow does the heavier counterweight help if you can only use so much force with a certain cart anyway? The Lp120 stock counterweight provides up to 4grams, i think.
ReplyDeleteYes but if you have an heavier counterweight you also can have heavier cartridges, then you can balance the tracking force by the factory advice.
ReplyDeleteI finally removed the usb preamp, and what a lovely difference. Kind of a pain, took me two tries to get my sound back. Don't really need to splice the ground, can just squeeze a circle end on it and put it under the spring
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ReplyDeleteAnd about Hum and record wear? Did it got better?
DeleteDoes it get better attending to the relation signal/noise/ attending that's a direct drive TT? Thank you.
DeleteHi João. I'm unsure exactly what aspect of the modifications to which you're referring. I don't experience hum with mine, just a little physical motor noise, which I find my rubber mat does the best job of minimizing compared to other mats I've tried. As for record wear, the only tweak I caj imagine you mean would be the record weight, and I don't see how that could affect record wear, assuming the tracking force is set properly.
DeleteVery useful info, pal. I just wonder if this protractor will also work with the AT95E cartridge this turnable comes with.
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely. The custom protractor will work with any cartridge you install on this table's tone arm.
Delete"The Techinics Baerwald Arc Protractor" will help all copies of SL 1200 tonearm. AT95E is a standard sized MM cartridge so it will go ok, I think.
ReplyDeleteHi João. The tonearm on this table is *not* a direct clone of the SL1200. That's why I included the measurements in the article, and the link for the custom protractor.
DeleteHi there! Quick question - in the event you're still here. :) If I use the following Pre-Amp with this AT-LP120 USB, do I still need to remove the internal pre-amp? Or can it just be switched to Line Out?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AJR482/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2T3MQD60T6GP5&coliid=I1A0ED2TGDEWDR
The whole point of this blog is that the built-in internal pre-amp is flawed and degrades the sound even if it's set to bypass. You definitely should remove the internal pre-amp for the best sound, IMHO. As I said above:
Delete"The built-in preamp is absolutely lousy. If you're using it, it adds an unpleasant digital tone to the playback, almost a graininess. Believe it or not, it also accentuates surface noise and sibilance. If you bypass it using the switch on the back of your turntable, there are still capacitors in the signal path which will make it sound dark and closed-in when their capacitance is added to that of your external pre-amp."
So yeah. If you're comfortable with the process as shown in the video above, yank that sucker out.
So just to clarify, will the internal pre-amp degrade your sound if you're not using an external pre-amp? I just have it connected in phono mode to a receiver that has a proper phone input. Does the internal pre-amp still degrade the sound in this scenario?
ReplyDeleteHi Seth, sorry for the long wait. The shirt answer is yes. It's a low-grade pre-amp with dull sound. You can get much better audio by removing it and using an external preamp as suggested. Hope that helps!
DeleteHi Benjamin,
ReplyDeletefollowing your blog a while now, great write up that you did here!
i was wondering if you also have an opinion on rewiring and changing the rca cable of the AT-LP120?
I've seen many upgrade kits for other turntables but i have seen only one post where someone actually did that (without a kit).
cheers
Hey Ben,
ReplyDeleteA big THANK YOU! for the info on cartridge alignment!!! It's funny, a few weeks ago I had come across that same youtube vid on removing the pre-amp and considering I wasn't using it, I ripped that sucker out! SO glad I did! Makes a big difference! Anyway I wanted to say thanks for the alignment info! Last week I bought a new cart (Ortofon 2M Red) & a alignment protractor. Went to align the old (AT95E) & new carts w/ the protractor & they both ended up w/ a drastic inward angle & didn't sound very good. After countless hours googling the interwebs & asking fellow fb vinyl group members, I was extremely confused & frustrated from all the different suggestions & opinions on how to align them. I finally came across your blog & fig'd I'd give it a shot. I d/l'd the protractor generator, entered the specs, printed it out & voila had an easy to use, correct, protractor for aligning carts on my ATLP120!!! Again, I can't thank you enough! Next upgrade - an Little Bear T10 tube preamp :)
Fantastic! I suffered for MONTHS with alignment problems before finding the proper pivot-to-spindle distance and using the protractor generator. No problems since.
DeleteHi! With some tweaks, this TT turns into a winner. Let me just make some questions. 1) Why replace the felt slip mat for a rubber mat? What's wrong with the felt one? It makes sense if someone uses the TT for a DJ purpose. 2) About the recomended AT440MLa, It seems that is not compatible with the mid mass arm. For that type of arm, shouldn't we look for a cartridge/stylus which has an optimal VTF of around 2g (in the range of 1.7g to 2.5g)? Maybe It's ok if you lighten the arm by using lower mass headshells. 3) About the counterweight, I didn't understand. Well, the problematic lighter counterweight provided with LP120 can't be solved just using a something like a "Stylus Force Scale Gauge", which makes sure the correct force is being applied? Also, the arm's tracking and performance are improved when the counterweight sits closer to the pivot. Let me know what do you think.
ReplyDeleteHi Anderson, lemme bullet point my answers. :)
Delete1) The rubber mat reduces motor sound.
2) Using the heavier counterweight allows you to use a heavier cartridge. It effectively removes the mis-match problem you describe.
3) The heavier counterweight does improve the tracking and performance. The stereo imaging seems more stable and in fact the soundstage seems wider.
Hope that helps!
Hey man, the generator lacks Mac support. Would it be cool if you emailed me a copy of the protractor you generated? Would be very much appreciated.
ReplyDeletei think i used stevenson protractor ok to set head alignment.....but can you tell what the generator protractor is used for?
ReplyDeleteFor those of you who need a Mac version, download Winebottler from Macupdate, its free. The protractor app works just fine and sends the print job to whatever printer you have set up on your Mac. When you open Winebottler, choose "advanced," set it up as a regular program (not an installer) and don't choose .NET support. Works like a charm.
ReplyDeleteBy the way, as of the date of this comment, I'm using "El Capitan" Public Beta 3 as my OS so you shouldn't have any compatibility issues with your version of OS X.
DeleteThanks for these upgrade tips. Does the Art DJ Pre II come with a usb port that allows me to digitize my music on my laptop? If not, which amp would you recommend that has a usb port. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteOkay well I might trouble you all for some advice. I was trying to get some fuzzball off my AT 120 and hit the needle...in horror I drew back and saw it was bent sideways...WHAT HAVE I DONE...do I need to replace it?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Thank you Benjamin for all the advice about this table. I have removed the preamp, got the artdj preamp, bought a new technics rubber mat, a AT-CW1 (Heavy Counterweight) , a AT440MLB cartridge and alligned with that software you linked with your given numbers. It sounds like a whole different turntable now. My only question is about the cartridge selection. I bought my AT440MLB new at a local Frys electronics for $139 complete with stylus. From what I've been reading thats a very good price as retail price is like $375 and $299 on amazon. I am very interested in the AT150MLX and heard its a bit warmer than the AT440MLB. I am still within the return period to return my AT440MLB. Do you think it would be worth it to return it and spend $349 for a AT150MLX? Is it worth a difference of $210? Thanks for all your help.
ReplyDeleteThe Shure M97xE cartridge doesn't fit on the head shell of this turntable. The screw holes on the Shure are further apart than the holes in the head shell. Yes, I was able to FORCE the old AT97E screws to tighten (the screws that come with the Shure don't even fit throught the headshell holes straight), but seriously, this is not what I was expecting from a purported authority on upgrading the Audio-Technica AT-LP120. I'm pretty annoyed that I spent $135.00 to find out that the recommendation doesn't even fit properly on the head shell.
ReplyDeleteThat's uncommon as it should be a standard 1/2 inch mount. I wanted to try the M97xE but without a micoline stylus its no comparison to what I have tried. I am kind of iffy on buying one and then spending another $165 on a good stylus for it. Many people have that turntable/headshell and cartridge combo you are speaking of and have had no issues. If your AT95E fit good, I would say the Shure cartridge you bought is out of spec.
DeleteI'm looking into doing the 'phono stage' rip out mod myself... Just one question before I proceed, whenever I have a record playing on this TT and I tap the plastic plinth (silver area say near the target light) I hear that tap through my speakers... Is this normal ?
ReplyDeleteMade a video of the issue:
Deletehttp://youtu.be/nZZcJ8VcyCI
Yes that is normal on mine also pre and post preamp removal. Remember a turntable is like a giant microphone. I think it would be the same on any budget turntable under $1000 USD . You could probably take it apart and use dynamat inside the plinth to make it better but for me its not a problem because i just play the record close the shell slowly and walk away.
DeleteThis is really a good share about "turntable",.It's very helpful thing,.
ReplyDeleteHi
ReplyDeleteI have the rubber mat and counterweight on order. How does the at98e compare to the cartridge/stylus you mentioned? I assume yours didn't come with that as standard back then. Did you fully remove the preamp or did you leave it in and add RCA connectors to both boards. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpeL7lUonQ4
Thanks for the tips.
Hello. Thanks for the tips. Arent you bypassing t's inner pre while using an external pre amp?
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DeleteHi, just got my first turntable 120 usb. Trying to get it all set up but I have a few questions.
ReplyDelete1. Do I need to get the Technics Overhang Gauge and do the alignment after or should I not bother with the gauge?
2. Does the rubber mat has to be made for technica TT?
Thanks
Hello Benjamin, thanks for sharing your experience.
ReplyDeleteI'm a newbie and purchased a lp120 some weeks ago.
What I wonder is that I can hear a quiet but definitely noticeable mechanical sound from the motor. It changes with the motor speed and is audible directly (not through my speakers, the needle is not on the record).
Shouldn't it be completly silent?
Would be thankful for your expertise on this.
Greetings Volker.
Hello Benjamin!
ReplyDeleteVery helpful experience. Many thanks! If we talking about cartridges, AT440MLa is very rare item now. Almost all sellers in Europe offer AT440MLb - newest product of Audio Technica. Is there a big difference between both cartridges? What you can say as an expert? Thanks! Bernie
These are great tips. One comment however about removing the pre-amp: the video only is for the USB model. If someone has already pointed this out, apologies for the duplication. The older model AT-PL120 without USB doesn't have the large pre-amp board inside. I have the older model with the phone/line-out switch under the platter. I'm not an expert, but it looks like a smaller preamp circuit board is directly under this switch. AND it's connected to other circuit boards so it's not just a matter of clipping a couple of wires. However, I am going to install a ground wire to see if it cuts down on noise.
ReplyDeleteThe provided app for creating a protractor is only for PC, and like many, I'm a Mac user. Am I just shit out of luck? I just got the Shure M97xE, and I'm totally clueless about all of this alignment stuff.
ReplyDeleteI just bought an AT-LP120 on Amazon. It arrived today. I set it up and it seems to play well. Plugged it right in to a soundbar. The idea was to get a turntable, then in a little while a decent amp, then some good speakers. I figured with this turntable I could start listening to vinyl right away, and just keep getting a better and better sound as I upgrade components and tweek the TT. It sounds good but maybe a little...muffled. I assume this is that built in phone amp problem. I also notice that the platter seems a little warped. I looked online and this is a big problem for a lot of people. some say the platter isn't warped, it's the spindle. Some people have returned them over and over again and each time have what they describe as a warped platter. Mine is a little visually warped, but plays fine and sounds fine. Should I keep it? Are all of your platters a little warped too? Should I return it and try for another? Or, should I return it and throw in another $150 for a Pro-ject Debut Carbon..or is there another recommended turntable? Don't need to DJ with it. Just want to listen to music. Making those upgrades would be a lot more appealing if this platter issue was nonexistent. I need to make a decision soon. Thanks for any input!
ReplyDeleteFriend, If It plays and sounds fine, Why would you change? I have a phono preamplifier made by Pro-Ject, and It is a good product. Vey well done and with good materials. The Debut Carbon must be done in the same manner. But maybe you don't like the sound too much (I didn't with the supplied cartridge)
DeleteI got some improvement using the supplied AT95e from another user's tip in the net. Added a second mat, increased the arm's height in 4 centimeter (the same as the mat), then decreased the height a half centimeter. It modifies a bit the VTA (vertical tracking angle) for getting better bass. Also, the VTF must be setted in 2.5g for this cartridge. It resulted a better trackability and a better sound in the sub-bass area. Now, Ronnie James Dio is kicking my ears from the first track to the last one.
ReplyDeleteI had same problem as Greg Laxton. The Shure M97x-E does not fit on the headshell of the TT. Any suggestions for a replacement headshell?
ReplyDeleteI'm interested to try the modifications you detailed. I was trying to listen to your before and after sound files you posted links to here, but the files are gone.
ReplyDeletehttp://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/post-your-needledrops-part-three.282651/page-16#post-7742746
Can you repost those files somewhere else? I'm very interested to hear the difference before I tear into things.
His record player broke in the meantime.
DeleteHis record player broke in the meantime.
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ReplyDeleteIt would be awesome if you could attach the image of the protractor for those of us that don't use PC.
ReplyDeleteHello Ben,
ReplyDeleteAwesome article. I have purchased the AT-CW1 heavy weight and a vintage heavy rubber mat, per your suggestions. I also upgraded the stylus to an AT95SE from LpGear. I await all the parts to try it out. If I may lean on your expertise for another question. I have removed the onboard preamp from the table. I have a Vintage receiver with a pretty good phono section. Do you think I would benefit from an external phono preamp for the AT120LP?
Thanks again, Jeff
Hi Ben,
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for sharing. I have one year with this turntable and, after upgrading to a Yamaha receiver with Phono input, I could bypass the built in pre-amp having a noticeable improvement in sound. Even I've got an original Technics 1200 rubber mat which adds a punchier bass and reduces the motor sound.
I still have in my to-do list getting the pre-amp removed. After do so, I'm planning to upgrade to a Ortofon 2M Blue cartridge. Do you recommend it for this turntable?
Regards, Erick.
Hi Erick. I tried the Ortofon 2M Blue on this table and was not impressed. Very bright and VERY forward sounding. The music felt pushed towards me instead of enveloping me. I aligned it properly with a protractor and adjusted the vta to every spot trying to get it to open up. After many hours of listening I went back to my AT95e and my ears were instantly relieved of stress. It may be fine on some tables with different ears, but wasn't for me. I really want to try a Grado, but most people complain of a slight hum as the stylus approaches the center of the record due to non shielding of the cartridge. I did just purchase the upgrade stylus for the AT95e. It's the Se from LP Gear. Should arrive today so I can check it out. Good luck with your table/cartridge search. J.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the advice Jeff. I'll be considering giving the Ortofon 2M Blue and the AT440MLB a try on this table with my local retailer (and a friend who already owns a 2M Blue) and see how it sounds before I buy. I'll share my findings once my quest is over.
DeleteMine is one that has the anti-skating issue - tone arm runs to the middle even at the highest setting. This is due to a weak spring in the mechanism. I am waiting for a good video on replacing as the only one on You-tube is in Spanish. Does anyone have any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteWhen did you purchase your frog prince? I have seen this video. Would this help?
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/eEd90RTWnRQ
Thanks Jeff - I would like to see a step-by-step video on how to replace the spring. The whole tone arm has to be removed. I purchased mine in November 2016. I wrote Audio Technica and received the following reply from Rick Joyner. I think his reply is garbage as being able to adjust the anti-skating properly would have no effect on a DJ using the equipment. His answer --- "We appreciate hearing from our customers because your questions, comments and suggestions will help develop and improve our products. The AT-LP120-USB was designed as a DJ turntable. Due to its excellent sound, quality and low cost, audiophiles started using and recommending it as an audiophile turntable. The AT-LP120 was designed with the DJ in mind and has features to meet that need such as being able to reverse the direction of the turntable and robustness for record scratching. According to one manufacturer of high end phono cartridges and tone arms, a somewhat weak anti-skate mechanism might be just right for low-compliance, DJ-oriented cartridges and one of our other competitors even recommends setting anti-skate to zero for DJ use. Therefore, the AT-LP120-USB does not have the same anti-skate adjustments that you would find on a high end (and high cost) audiophile turntable.
ReplyDeleteThank you"
I agree. Not believing that for a second. Being able to dial anti skate should be allowed across the whole dial spectrum, if you will. Since there is a spring for appropriate settings, you should be able to use it from 1-4. Otherwise, why not have dummy settings for 5-10? Makes no sense. I think the only way you are going to fix this is to take the bottom off and have a go at the spring. Cut the spring down in size and re-curl one end and reattach. You can do it. Just be patient and thorough.
ReplyDeleteI am going to give it a try and probably remove the pre-amp at the same time. Thanks for your feedback.
ReplyDeleteI took out the pre-amp and cut the wires attached right at the pre-amp soldered them to new RCA plugs that I purchased on amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TAR6YMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Drilled holes in the back of the turntable and mounted the RCA Plugs and a Ground Screw (before soldering.). The pre-amp sounded muddy, even when I by-passed it and used my Amp Phono input. Sounds great now. Going to get a cork mat or rubber mat next.
ReplyDeleteGood deal. What about your anti skate issue? Did you resolve it?
ReplyDeleteI cut a small piece of thin plastic (like from AA battery packaging). About 1/8 inch wide and 1 inch long. Hopefully you can picture this in your mind - I folded it in half (V shape). Then I folded just a small tab on each side at the top of the V, so it doesn't slide down into the tonearm groove. Then I slid the piece in the groove where the tonearm rotates. I had to take the piece of plastic out several times and adjust it (open or close the fold) before I got the right tension. Finally, I got enough tension on the tone arm as was able to adjust the anti-skating perfectly. The placement of the plastic piece is in the back of the tone arm groove in the middle. I used a blank record to adjust the anti-skating tension. It's been a few days, and I re-checked the anti-skating again and it is still good. If this doesn't hold, I may eventually pull the tonearm out and replace or cut down the weak spring that is causing the issue with the anti-skating issue.
DeleteThat's a NASCAR shim :)
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ReplyDeleteNote from my previous - The plastic is clear and small and you can hardly see it - No eye sore.
ReplyDeleteHere is the best video I have seen on pre-amp replacement and sound difference. However, you do not have to tape the brass bushings - they are smaller then the screw hole so just put them on the end of the screw when re-assembling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NT67ii04uQ&t=125s
ReplyDeleteI have that guy in my favorites on YouTube. He's great. Glad to hear the plastic worked. Have you done the heavier counter weight tweet? I did and it works great. It may very well help your anti skate problem too since the weight sits closer to the spindle. Might check it out.
ReplyDeleteHard to understand how a heavier counterweight helps. I have a Nagaoka MP-110 cartridge and I set it at 1.8 grams and my counterweight goes to 4 grams. Does a heavier counter weight change the sound? I did add a 1/8 inch cork turntable mat which did make the bass tighter. I don't understand how, but it did bring out the bass. Where did you purchase your counter weight?
DeleteTweak, not tweet. Damn the auto correct!!
ReplyDeleteYou can buy the counterweight at LP Gear. The heavier weight sits closer to the "pivot point" thus making the center of gravity more properly aligned. This aides in better tracking, better needle centering, and ultimately tighter and more accurate sound. Basically, it allows the needle to do its job better. The cork is like laying your hand against a ringing bell. It stops the resonant ringing and deepens the frequency. Great idea to add one.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jeff, good info to know.
DeleteAT sells the heavier counterweight to allow the use of heavier than average cartridges which otherwise could not be balanced on the tonearm- no other reason. If not needed for that purpose, then it is just adding dead weight to the tonearm, and there is no reason to do that. It doesn't aid tracking; if anything having to move its extra mass would impair tracking. Don't know what "better needle centering" is, but more weight on the tonearm isn't going to effect needle alignment. No one, including our blogger, has in the interim two years offered any rational reason for this modification. Those who hear a difference are confused; that's the sound of your $34 flushing down the tube.
DeleteSounds great Erik. I'd be interested in your opinion on the cartridge. I look forward to hearing more.
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DeleteI immediately noticed an improvement of the MP-110 over the AT95e even without a break in period, however I did not get the "WOW" factor until I removed my pre-amp. With the pre-amp out and the MP-110 - now I can say "WOW". I purchased it based on this you-tube review where the MP-110 was the clear winner in Group B.
Deletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U5ANqGccmk
Does the jico SAS superior tracking make the notorious anti skate issue a non factor?
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ReplyDeleteAnyone know where I can get that AT-CW1 counter weight other than LP GEAR? They just barely sold out and won't have any until May. :(
ReplyDeleteDennis, I have been looking myself. Looks like we have to wait. If I see them in stock someplace, I will advise. Ron
DeleteThanks Ron. Seems awful strange that these wouldn't be available elsewhere especially on Ebay.
DeleteMy normal name now - no longer a fairy tale and never turned into a prince. - previously frogprince71
ReplyDeleteHere is a link to the RCA jack mod I made. http://www.computerscope.com/html/misc.htm
ReplyDeleteAlso I added a TCC TC-754 BLACK RIAA Phono Preamp which sounds 100 percent better then the Phono preamp on my Yamaha RX-V3800 receiver-which was a $1800 receiver when I purchased it. Lost my faith in Phono Preamps on receivers.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but it's nearly impossible to adjust the VTA on the AT-120LP-USB properly. Even with the VTA gauge set at 0mm, the tone arm will be slightly high in back and low in front. In order to get the tone arm completely parallel, I had to stack three mats on top of one another (the stock felt mat, a 2mm cork mat and a 2mm rubber mat).
ReplyDeleteYepp, i use the stock felt mat and a technics rubber matt (3mm). VTA on heavy vinyl looks ok, but on thin records... well, it is still quite off, but not much. Using this confugration makes playback with a clamp on very thick pressings (>=180g) nearly impossible. Even a clearaudio clever clamp sometimes gets out of spindle and wont "snap" properly.
DeleteCheers
jayS
After reading this column again and again, I decided to go ahead with the improvements laid out in here, boy was I for a surprise, there was this annoying grainy sound on the back of my receiver (was not there before when using my old Bang & Olufsen Beogram 5000 TT) it could be notice on the spot, the extreme sensitivity on the plate and everywhere on the deck and a real deep whistling when increase the volume that use to gave me a headache; so I added the rubber mat but put it on top on the felt one, new complete cartridge Shure M97xE and completely disconnected the pre-amp but left it in place,for aesthetics (perhaps some day i will work on the capacitors and filters we'll see)a new ground cable directly from the tonearm ground to my receiver, I did not buy a new counterweight I rather cut in my lathe a round piece of brass measured it to 12 grams and fitted in the old CW, actually looks gorgeous that way a couple of bushings on the cartridge to level the VTF on the arm, align it and fire it up! Brother oh brother what a difference, crystal clear sound, no hum except from the power cables behind the table at very high volume setting, no sensitivity at the table surface and no grainy day at all. A bit skeptic at the beginning but extremely satisfy with the end result, thank you all for the help.(including the surliness lol)
ReplyDeletehere:
ReplyDeletehttp://i.imgur.com/IEjSoWp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2pOOKqf.jpg
forgot to add, got the ring of brass from this piece
Deletehttp://i.imgur.com/suPYsml.jpg
tight measured, divided it on 3 pieces with a hacksaw and then file down until it weighted 12 grams to get a 10mm thick band. then add it to the counterweight.
Did the counterweight help resolve tracking issue?
DeleteThe AT-CW1 counterweight upgrade is finally back in stock at LP GEAR. I got one and unfortunately it does not fix the skipping issues I have with a few lps that play without skipping on a friends turntable (different make and model). I agree it does sit closer to the pivot point as people have stated. I am using the original AT95-E cartridge that came with the turntable. The counterweight is the only upgrade I have made. I am thinking of getting a Shure M44-7 cartridge as it has a reputation of being an anti-skip cartridge. If anyone has any other suggestions as to why my lps skip on my turntable vs others I'd like to know. I have a collection of 300+ lps and only a small fraction skip. Is the cartridge the next obvious culprit???
ReplyDeleteHello, I just found out I'm still getting notified on postings here and I normally would not respond but I see you have 300+ LPs. I HAD an AT120LP and did EVERY UPGRADE listed, I ran an AT 440la cart, I never got the anti-skate correct and it seemed fine, I've used Direct drive TTs since the late 70's, needed a new one and didn't want to buy used so I got the 120. If you listen to vinyl everyday (I do) do yourself a favor and upgrade, I am being honest here, I shelled out the cash for a PLZ 1000 pioneer and the difference is enormous. If you don't require Direct Drive, the less expensive Pro-jects are a better option to the 120 imho. I enjoyed playing with the 120 but in the long run, there are a lot of much better options for a little more money and more enjoyment listening to music in the long run. Good luck with whatever you come up with.
DeleteThanks. I don't play lps everyday. I doubt after all the money I've put into it I will bother buying a new turntable. It's a very small percentage that skips and I can correct this by adjusting the weight. I was just hoping the AT-CW1 would have solved this issue so I wouldn't have to adjust the weight.
DeleteHey folks!
ReplyDeleteAudio Technica released a protractor which is also stevenson-based. Now the question is, which protractor should i prefer? Any suggestions? I think it’s quite difficult to align the at95e (still got distortion), but maybe I just have to practice a little more.
Link: http://blog.audio-technica.com/audio-solutions-question-of-the-week-how-do-i-align-the-cartridge-on-the-at-lp120-usb-and-at-lp1240-usb-turntables/
Cheers
jayS
Hello there, full help this blog for me! I improved my at120lp succesfully,removed the preamp, and improved the tonearm without these black rings (I cannot get them here in greece) by using classic little gums, turned them many times in order to be perfect for the diameter of the arm. they do the same job as the black rings- they enforce the arm to be more costant, improving the styous tracking, using my new electronic tonearm meter. My cartidge * stylus is a AT440MLB so the results are perfect! And don't listen these morons who say that the middle frequenses are not satisfied, THEY ARE! That`s why we have equalizers anyway (I have a proffesional "Cloud" one) So, remember my words: this turntable will be one of the legendary ones after 20 or 30 years. Thank you blogger!
ReplyDeleteI dont know if it alreday has been said, but the spacers u dont need to put them back before putting the backcover back on top.... the spacer are for the screws and the backcover.... they are nit connecting the back to the front... so just put back the backover on top and let the spacers slide into the screwholes... i hope u understand... im from germany and got this tunrtable as a present... today i removed the preamp... thanks for the instruction
ReplyDeleteDoesn’t look like a static free environment in the video.
ReplyDeleteStyrofoam has a major problem with stored charge. Some electronic circuits can be damaged by as little 30 Volts. Worse yet, physical contact is not required to cause the damage. Motion of the Styrofoam with respect another object can induce a current in that object producing a damaging voltage. Styrofoam is not allowed in clean-rooms where electronic circuits are manufactured.
Looks like the turntable/styrofoam is sitting on a towel. Should be on a conductive mat, without styrofoam, connected to the ground in a nearby wall socket, and a ground strap connected between the wrist and the mat through a one Meg Ohm resistor (to limit the current passing through your body in case you forgot to unplug something).
After the mod, it looks like there is a peak in the response at 10 kHz and, after the connection to the preamp, a roll-off at 10 kHz. This would make a different sound by comparison. Sometimes I think that if the sound changed, some people would think that was a good thing. I would not perform this mod before I understood what went on there. May be a good question to ask the cartridge manufacturer if there is an optimum capacitive load for the cartridge.
I just bought an AT-LP1240-USB TT. Has anyone contacted the manufacturer for the input capacitance of the on-board preamplifier?
I would not do the mod before I got answers to my questions.
I really admire what you have been posted here as whole post seem very informative...
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